Watch us on CBS Boston

Click on this link and watch me and Pemberton Garden Services kickoff another season of gardening withCBS Boston...

CLICK HERE TO WATCH....

Voted Top Garden Center! Pretty cool...

Stumbled across this article....  Not sure how they found us but we'll take it....  #1 in Boston is always a great thing to be called.

Click the link to read the wonderful article....   Pemberton Garden Center selected as top Garden Center

Spring Cleaning Outdoors? Getting your Garden Ready to Grow

Spring is just 2 days away!  Spring officially begins on March 20th officially and a new gardening  season too.  Although I am not sure mother nature is releasing winters grip yet as it is still quite cold.  Just ahead is time to get the yard and gardens ready for new, green growth.

Use this guide on how to manage spring cleaning outdoors to help assure that your yard and flower gardens will be primped and ready for the coming season. Lawn Care First up is your lawn. Make sure to rake up any leaves off the lawn, as they could leave blotchy bare spots on your lawn if left to be, and raking will also help prevent thatch buildup. Store leaves in large trash bags or containers for later use. Examining the condition of your lawn will allow you to determine its condition and what kinds of nutrients and amendments it may need. If your lawn is showing mossy patches your soil is likely too acidic, so make sure to give it more alkaline material in the form of agricultural lime or wood ash. Fertilizer, such as compost, may also be necessary in bare spots, and can be administered with a mulching mower. Mowing the lawn is the next step once the weather is dry enough. If your grass has grown very tall, set your mower to a higher setting, mow the lawn, and then a few days later mow the lawn again at a lower setting to lower your grass levels gradually. This helps prevent your live green outdoor carpet from sunburn, and is easier to on your mower. The nitrogen rich grass clippings can also be used a nutritious mulch layer. Preparing Flower Beds  The first thing to do when preparing existing flowerbeds for new growth is to clear away dead matter. So cut away all dead flower stalks and limbs, which are clearly discernible from their dull grey or brown color. Dead brush that has fallen to the ground should also be cleared in order for new growth to push itself up through the ground. This will allow you to see the new greenery popping out from the ground, as well as discern weeds from the plants you want in your garden. If you don’t recognize common weeds, investing in a weed or gardening guide is a good idea to help you keep the most invasive weeds out of your flower beds. Dividing Perennials Dividing perennials like daylilies and phlox in your flower garden is an important and effective way to promote the health and longevity of those perennials, as well as keeping them out of areas where they aren’t wanted. Dividing is also a great way to propagate different flower types to bare spots in your flower beds, or pot them up to share with friends and neighbors or to sell. Make sure to use a sharp, flat shovel for dividing in order to make clean cuts. Spring is the best time of year to divide perennials, as they will only just be waking up, and so their roots will be less shocked from being moved to a new spot or pot. Planting, Transplanting and Mulching Spring is a good time to transplant flowers, shrubs and trees in your yard, as the soil is re-awakening and plant roots are coming to life again. Perennials will do well with transplanting, as mentioned above, and small to medium shrubs and trees can be moved as they are still semi-dormant. Biennials that are prolific spreaders such as columbines and oriental poppies also make great transplants, as it is much easier to move an established plant than start one from seed. Plant hardy annuals like snapdragons, marigolds and calendulas in bare spots once risk of hard frost has passed, in order to keep weeds and grass from taking over. Make sure to water seeded areas well. Annuals can also be started indoors to allow roots to establish before transplanting them in tougher and colder soil outside. Make sure to mulch your freshly weeded garden beds to help make sure that weeds or other unwanted plants do not make their way to the bare open areas, as mulching helps prevent unwanted seeds from germinating. Wood chips, wood bark, grass clippings and all those leaves you’ve raked all work well in flower gardens, especially ones with alkaline soil. Spread a layer of mulch approximately one-inch thick, making sure not to smother any of the plants you want in the garden bed. Finishing Touches Make your outdoor space more enjoyable by giving your deck a scrub with wood oil soap, or pressure washing it to blast the dirt and fungi off. An old butter knife or flathead screwdriver works well to loosen up moss and weeds between patio stones, immediately making your outdoor space look tidier. Clean off and and oil wooden outdoor furniture so that you can kick back and admire your handiwork on a beautiful, sunny summer day! Poppies and more...

Watch my Gardening Segments on WBZ & CBS Boston

Click on the YouTube link below and enjoy some of my gardening segments over the past three years and especially the new "Best of" that I just put together from the 2012 gardening season.

Click HERE to watch it on YouTube.

Thanks and Happy almost Spring...

Mark Saidnawey
Pemberton Garden Services
Cambridge, MA
www.PembertonGardening.com

Happy Meteorological Spring

Got the New England winter blues?  Had it with shoveling, scraping, & freezing?  Tired of being pent up in the house every weekend with the kids while another snow storm rages outdoors?  If you are a winter hater or perhaps just have had enough and are ready for Spring I am full of good news today.   Cheer up buckaroo, things are just about ready to turn around.  March in New England is truly a month of change.

Crocus Peaking through the melting snow

So here are my top ten reasons (in no particular order) why you should turn that winter frown upside-down and rejoice that March is here…

10) Temperatures are rising!!  The average daytime highs will go from 42 degrees on March 1^st to 51 degrees on March 31^st.

9)  Boston averages just 7” of snow in March…much less than January and February AND in recent years we have had very little snow, just about 2” combined in the last 3 years!  (0.6”, 1.3”, 0.2”)

8)  And the good news this year, there is PLENTY of snow in the Mountains…so if you are a skier or find yourself missing the white stuff, hop in the car and drive north…there should be enough to last all month up there.

7)  We average about 57% of the available sunshine in the month of March, more than any month since October.

6)  Last March, we had 7 days which had temperatures 70 degrees or higher and on March 22^nd last year we actually hit 83 degrees in Boston!  So there is a chance of seeing summer-like periods in March.  Although I gotta say, last March was extremely rare with 3 days reaching record highs and the 83 degrees was an astounding 11 degrees above the old record for that date.

5)  Heating bills start to shrink…of course this is highly dependent upon what type of March we have, but typically there is more money in your pocket thanks to Mother Nature.

4)  The sap is running!  One of the best traditions in New England in March is maple syruping…the festivals, the pancake breakfasts…good times!

3)  Daylight Saving Time begins on March 10^th…Back in 2007 Congress made the change from early April to the second weekend of March.  So in just a little over a week we will turn the clocks ahead.  Sunset on March 1^st: 5:34pm….Sunset on March 31: 7:09pm  WOW!

2)  Spring officially begins this year on March 20^th at 7:02am…this means that from that day forward, the Earth will begin the tilt towards the sun in the Northern Hemisphere…meaning longer days and higher sun angle…so even if we do get a renegade snow storm or two, the snow never sticks around very long in March.

        Flowers are already starting to sprout!  We have received dozens of viewer pictures over the last few days showing the first signs of life in their backyards…The month of March typically brings the first signs of Daffodils, Crocuses, Hyacinths and Hostas.  If you remember last year, many garden centers actually started stocking their pansies in late March, again a bit earlier than normal.  And with Easter falling on March 31^st this year, the Easter Lilies will be on the shelves as well!

So there you go…While it is certainly too early to put away the boots and winter coat just yet, there is a lot to look forward to in the month of March!

This was written by Terry Eliasen

Terry Eliasen | Meteorologist, Executive Weather Producer | CBS Local Media’s WBZ-TV & myTV38 | 617-787-7098  | cbsboston.com

Are SunPatiens a good alternative to regular impatiens?

There is much talk about what will work as a substitute for regular (walleriana) shady loving impatiens.  A new variety in the last few years are Sunpatiens, but do they work well in the shade?  I don't think so...

SunPatiens in a mass planting

 Here's a great Q&A

   Q: I've had that disease that killed my impatiens this year. I've heard that SunPatiens are a type that's resistant to the disease, but I've also read they can become leggy in shade. The front of my house gets more shade than sun (probably only about 4-6 hours of sun tops). Will these SunPatiens work in that soil or should I stick with clown flowers, New Guineas, etc? I would love to try vincas, but they don't grow as big as when they're in the sun. Would 'Wave' petunias work?

   A: SunPatiens are more like New Guinea impatiens than the "regular" bedding impatiens (Impatiens walleriana) that people commonly grow. They're bigger and more upright in habit and definitely aren't a straight substitute for what we're used to growing.    I think they are worth a try -- if nothing else to see how you like them and how they perform in your particular spot. They are reportedly resistant to downy mildew, but I guess we'll see for sure. It sounds like you've got partial shade, not full shade all day. There's a decent chance they'll do well.

   I see a few possible downsides, though. A big one is cost. Both SunPatiens and New Guinea impatiens come in larger pots and cost more than the 6-pack of bedding impatiens that are available just about anywhere annuals are sold.   For example; at Pemberton a 6-pack of regular impatiens cost $2.99, that's .50 cents/plant -vs- a 4 inch pot of New Guinea or SunPatiens at cost $4.99 for one plants, ouch!  Another is performance. I haven't had much luck with New Guineas in the ground over the years. I've had them rot when it gets too wet and seen them fry if it's too hot or too much sun.   I think you have to get conditions just right.

Here's how to look at it optimistically -- at least downy mildew is giving us a good excuse to try some other shade annuals. This year is going to be a good time to try several different kinds of flowers for the shade. 

Three of my favorite flowering shady annuals are Begonias, Browallia and Torenia, Browallia and Begonias.

Torrenia 'Clown Mix'

Browallia

Non-Stop Begonias

I for one will be using a lot more of these this year and I will be sure to have more on hand for our customers that come looking for impatiens.


Best of Luck.

Mark Saidnawey
Mark@PembertonGardening.com

Wait! I shouldn't plant the #1 most popular annual this season?

Is there really a disease that is killing the #1 selling annual? Say it ain't so!  Should we be afraid to plant Impatiens?  Unfortunately the answer is YES!!

If you haven't already heard there is a fungal disease that can kill your favorite shady annual, impatiens.

Impatiens downy mildew is a destructive foliar disease of Impatiens walleriana (the ones we all love) that is capable of causing complete defoliation or plant collapse, especially in landscape plantings under moist conditions and cool nights.

While there have been sporadic reports of impatiens downy mildew in U.S. greenhouses since 2004, it was not until the summer of 2011 that regional outbreaks of this disease were seen for the first time in landscape beds and container plantings in North America.   In early January 2012, outbreaks of impatiens downy mildew were observed in landscape beds and greenhouses in south Florida. It is unclear whether this was a continuation of the 2011 outbreaks or a new cycle of disease for 2012. The spread of this disease continued throughout the spring, and by October 2012, impatiens downy mildew had been confirmed in landscape beds and/or greenhouses in 32 states including my home state of Massachusetts.

Shady flower border planted with impatiens

 Don't Impatiens just add a nice touch of color to a shady garden.  The picture to the left is in my backyard and I for one love planting impatiens along the front border every season, well, except for this coming season.  In 2012 I too lost all my impatiens to the "dreaded" downy mildew!

You can click here and watch me and Todd from CBS Boston talk about it in my yard last summer.

Impatiens effected by downy mildew

From what I have learned there is no guaranteed cure for the downy mildew.  However if you do want to take your chances here are some tips.

1.  Ask your local garden center if their impatiens have been treated with a fungicide. Growers are well aware of impatiens downy mildew and shown that fungicide rotations can be highly effective to prevent this disease while the plants are in production.

2.  Inspect all impatiens that are purchased for planting, looking on the lower leaf surface for the
fuzzy sporulation.

3.  Consider planting impatiens when air and soil temperatures are warm. If a region is experiencing
an extended cool, moist spring, it may be appropriate to delay planting for a few weeks. Impatiens
grow slowly under those conditions and will grow rapidly when planted later.

4.   Set automatic sprinkler irrigation to run early in the morning, never in the evening or during the
night. Better yet, use drip irrigation to avoid getting water on the leaves.

5.   Inspect planting beds. If small outbreaks of impatiens downy mildew are found, remove the
affected plants and neighboring plants immediately. Place the debris, including roots and fallen leaves, in plastic bags and close them to avoid spreading the spores. These plants should not be
composted. Make note of the planting areas, and avoid re-planting impatiens in these beds next
year.

6. If all else fails, plant something else!  There are other great shady annuals to chose from and I for one will be experimenting with them all.  Browalia, Begonias, Mimulus and Sunscape Impatiens.

I will blog next about Sunscape Impatiens.  Looks like a nice replacement for Impatiens walleriana For now.  I wonder if it's a conspiracy?

If you have have of comments or questions please feel free to email me.

Mark Saidnawey
Pemberton Farms & Pemberton Garden Services
2225 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, Ma 02140
617-447-0606
Mark@PembertonGardening.com

Farmer's Almanac for the North East

Northeast U.S.

Long Range Weather Forecast for February 20th - April 19th

Includes New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, West Virginia, Virginia, Washington D.C.

 Select Another U.S. Zone -----------Midwest/Great Lakes U.S.Southeast U.S.North Central U.S.South Central U.S.Northwest U.S.Southwest U.S.

Farmers' Almanac's long range weather predictions are available here for 2 months and if you sign up for a FREE account with us, we'll give you 4 months!

February 2013
20th-23rd. Blustery and cold.
24th-28th. A major storm over the ocean perhaps brushes the coast with light snow and gusty winds, then turning fair.

March 2013
1st-3rd. Fair skies.
4th-7th. Light snow or rain.
8th-11th. Showery weather possible, especially for the coast, as a storm sweeps across the Mid-Atlantic.
12th-15th. Scattered showers.
16th-19th. Unsettled, gusty winds, with mixed rain and wet snow.
20th-23rd. A major coastal storm with strong winds and heavy precipitation.
24th-27th. Showers from Virginia and Maryland to New England, then fair.
28th-31st. Another coastal storm! More wind, rain and snow, just in time for Easter.

April 2013
1st-3rd. No fooling: very unsettled Mid-Atlantic States through New England, then fair.
4th-7th. More wetness.
8th-11th. Pleasant spell.
12th-15th. Rain unfortunately coincides with Patriot's Day in Massachusetts and Maine.
16th-19th. Sunny skies.

My fingers are crossed for great gardening and planting weather once April rolls around.  For now, it really doesn't effect us gardeners too much.  As long as there's a good snow pack insulating our perennial beds we are good for now.

Think spring.  20 days from today.

Mark Saidnawey, Pemberton Garden Services

New Mulch coming this Spring to Pemberton Farms

This past summer one of our gardening customers asked me to get here this wonderful mulch from the Coast of Maine company.  Well, after getting it in and trying it myself I was hooked!  I liked it so much we will be carrying this spring at Pemberton Farms.  Read below to check it out.

Coast of Maine Dark Harbor Blend

Dark Harbor Blend is an exceptionally rich, fine-textured blend of naturally composted barks, ideal for mulching beds, borders and gardens and for use around shrubs and trees.

It will help retain moisture without robbing your soil of nitrogen and help insulate the surface soil against excessive cold and heat that can otherwise damage plant root systems. Because Dark Harbor's barks are almost completely decomposed, it can be dug into your beds and garden in the fall, providing your soil a rich and immediate source of organic material.

We have named this blend for the picturesque island village of Dark Harbor on Isleboro Island in Penobscot Bay.

Dark Harbor Blend is available in one cubic foot (30 lb) bags and two cubic foot (60 lb) bags at selected retailers in the Northeast.

Click here to watch a great video by the guys at Coast of Maine about this product...

For more information you can visit www.CoastofMaine.com or contact me at  Pemberton Farms.

Can't wait!

Mark Saidnawey
Pemberton Farms and Pemberton Garden Services
2225 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, Ma 02140
617.447.0606
Mark@PembertonGardening.com

The storm has past. Time to check for tree damage.

After the strong winds and heavy snow from the Blizzard last week and the fact that we can now, somewhat, walk around in our yards it is a great time to check for any damage to our trees.  Take this time to carefully check for cracks in major limbs, cracks in the trunk, and broken or detached branches in the crown.

Here are some great tips! 

First, BE CAREFUL when assessing trees after a storm.  DAMAGED TREES are UNSTABLE AND POSE A SIGNIFICANT HAZARD.  Consider having a reputable tree care company assess any damaged trees on your property, as they have experience dealing with hazardous trees.  

1. Assess Whether the Storm Damaged Tree Should be Removed:

Major limbs which are dead, which have cracks, or are broken should be removed as quickly as possible as this may pose a significant danger to people and property.  If the storm has exposed roots or caused them to be lifted out of the soil, this means that the tree poses a significant risk and needs to be assessed by a professional. Even a little root lifting can be a sign of weakness and may indicate that the tree should be removed.

2. Remove Dead, Broken, or Hanging Branches from Storm Damaged Trees:

Heavy snow, rains, ice, and wind can break limbs, damage tender plants, wash away mulch, and erode soil from around plant roots. Damaged or dead plant parts should be removed soon after a storm to allow the plant time to recover and reduce risk. Branches that are bent from snow or ice load should be removed, as they will not straighten themselves back up. Make clean pruning cuts back to lateral branches to help them close. Make collar cuts rather than flush cuts, which create a wound that will be slow to seal and may cause disease. Remove any debris so it won't pose a threat. For more information on making recommended pruning cuts, see How to Prune Trees here. 

3. Watch for ‘Door-Knockers’, Hire Certified Arborists:

Reputable tree service companies rarely solicit business door-to-door.  Uncertified tree workers often descend upon storm-damaged areas with pick-up trucks and chain saws.  These workers may not be insured and homeowners may be left picking up the tab if their home or neighbor’s property is damaged. If you’re unsure about taking care of your trees or the recovery after a storm, use these tips for hiring an ISA certified arborist.

Although I did not lose any trees in the blizzard many of my evergreens; holly, arborvaite, bamboo, rhododendrons and a few others are still buried and bent like someone is sitting on them.  If you have go dig them out!  They will thank you later...

Good luck and feel free to email any questions or pics to me if you need help.

Mark Saidnawey

Pemberton Garden Services

Cambridge Ma 02140

Mark@PembertonGardening.com

Growing Cactus & Succulents.

 

Click Here to watch Mark talk Cactus on CBS Boston 

Cactus and Succulents, Easy and fun for the family:
Looking for an easy and fun way to garden indoors this winter. How about creating a nice cacti and succulent garden collection. Easy to care for and very long lasting these plants are fun for the whole family. As long as you know how to care for them.

The difference between Cacti and Succulents:
The difference is actually quite easy to describe, once you are aware of it. The word succulent is a descriptive term for all the types of plants that store water in their leaves or stems. A cactus is in a large family of plants that are all succulents. There are other types of succulents besides cacti. So, a good rule to remember is that all cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are Cacti.

Caring for Cactus and Succulents:
Watering:
During the active growth season cacti need to be watered more often than during the dormant season. There is no set watering specifications for cacti, as it depends on the pot,
the soil, the climate and several other factors. The best way to learn how much water your cactus needs and how often is to observe it. When watering the cactus, add water until
there is only about a half inch of dry soil on the surface. Be sure that the drainage holes in the pot are not blocked so the water can run out. Do not water the cactus again until the soil is completely dry. The easiest way to check the soil moisture is to carefully stick a pencil or a similar object to the bottom of the soil and check for any damp soil clinging to it.
During the dormant season (winter months), the plant should be watered no more than every few weeks.
Fertilizer:
From spring to fall, you should only fertilize your cactus once every eight to ten weeks. A low nitrogen fertilizer works best, like 5-10-10. You can also use a time release
fertilizer, but they only need to be used once in the spring. You can buy specific cactus fertilizer at your local garden supply store. Do not fertilize during the winter months.
Light Requirements:
Cacti need bright light and inside, southern facing windows are best. If the cactus does not receive enough light, artificial light should also be supplemented.
Temperature:
Cacti can tolerate heat up 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit during their active growth season. During the dormant season, cacti do best in temperatures from 45-55 degrees, which they
would encounter in their natural habitats. Studies have also proven that low temperatures during the dormant season encourage flower growth.
Soil:
Next you will need soil for your cactus. The best kind is cactus soil, made specifically for cacti, which you can find at home improvement centers and gardening stores. If you
cannot get cactus soil, then you can make your own with one part potting soil and one part sand. Adding a little gravel to the mixture will also aid in drainage.
Repotting:
When repotting your cactus, break the old pot if possible and remove the pieces. Digging the cactus out of the pot can cause root damage and should be avoided. Put some of
the fresh cactus soil into the bottom of the pot and placethe cactus on top. Then fill in the sides with more soil. The cactus should not be heavily watered or placed in direct
sunlight for about a week after repotting to allow it to adjust to it’s new “˜home.’ After the initial repotting, the cactus should only be transferred to another pot when
absolutely necessary. After the repotting is over, caring for your cactus is a breeze. The most important thing to remember is that cacti have two seasons, the active growing season during the spring and summer and the dormant season during the fall and winter, when they go into hibernation so to speak.
Issues with Cactus:
Over watering is the biggest problem which faces cactus owners, but can be easily be avoided with proper care. Over watering can cause root and stem rot. Unfortunately, once a
cactus’ roots or stems start to rot, there is nothing you can do to save it. Relatively few pests bother cacti but there are a few, such as aphids, red spider mites and mealy bugs. When you purchase a cactus, make sure it is free of insects before bringing it home. If your cacti at home have insects, treat them with an insecticide. As you now see, growing cacti can be fun easy. Just follow the rules and especially remember, DON’T OVER WATER.

If you would like more information on Cactus and Succulents you may email me directly at Mark@PembertonGardening.com or check out the Massachusetts Cactus and Succulent Society Blog.

P.S. This Week at Pemberton Farms we have a very nice assortment of cacti and succulents. Since they are great in the winter you should come in and check them out!!

Seed Starting Indoor... Time to get growing!

As winter continues to move along it is time to start planning this years crops for your garden and
Pemberton Farms has all the seeds and supplies you need to get started.   This year we have decided to carry seeds from a wonderful family owned company called Botanical Interests.    If you visit them on-line you will see find some very informative article on seeds and seed plantings.

  

 Starting Seeds Indoors by Botanical Interests

Whatever your motivation is for starting seeds indoors, the process can be fun and simple. When you understand what factors influence a seed you'll be able to create a formula for success, and then repeat it again and again.

LIGHT
Light is one of the most important factors to creating a healthy, strong seedling. There are some seeds, usually very tiny ones, which receive part of their signals to germinate from light. These seeds should be only lightly covered or sprinkled directly on top of moist soil. Some seeds, usually larger ones, can have their germination inhibited by exposure to light. It is vital that these seeds are sown deep enough to be in complete darkness until germinated. Your Botanical Interests seed packet will have any special sowing instructions you need to consider.
Ample light is also one on the major factors influencing the physical strength of seedlings. Sufficiently intense light of the right duration will make a shorter, stronger seedling than weaker light sources. A basic and adequate setup can be as simple as four fluorescent tubes, two cool and two warm spectrum, hung no more than three inches from the top of your seedlings. A timer will help you consistently deliver 14 hours or more of light per day.

TEMPERATURE
Temperature is the factor in the life of a plant, especially germination, which governs the rate at which things happen. While the ideal germination temperature for some plants may be higher or lower, normal household temperatures are usually within the range that encourages germination in a vast majority of commonly grown plants. If temperatures are too low, germination may slow or stop entirely. There are some plants that germinate at a higher ideal temperature. Many of these are tropical plants grown as annual flowers and vegetables in cooler climates. They include but are not limited to: asparagus, begonia, celosia, impatiens, petunia, tomato, watermelon, cucumber, eggplant, pepper, pumpkin, zucchini, and melons. All of these plants germinate at an ideal temperature above 70° F. You can increase germination percentage and speed by applying heat to your soil. You can do this by placing trays and pots near a heat vent, radiator, or other gentle heat source. You can also buy a specially designed heat mat made for this purpose at your garden center.

WATER

There is more water in a plant than any other constituent. The way you apply it becomes one of the most important factors in determining the overall health of your seedlings. When a seed comes in contact with water it begins to absorb it. This signals to the plant that it is time to come out of dormancy, germinate, and grow. The plants are fragile in the early stages of life. At this time, consistent moisture is vital. When starting seed indoors, they depend on you to create and maintain the right amount of moisture in their surroundings. After sowing, seeds should be watered gently, but thoroughly. If your seeds are tiny, or are to be sown shallow, you may want to wet your soil before sowing. Moisture should be maintained consistently after the first watering, but never to the point of soggy soil. Saturated soil can create conditions that will rot your seeds before they germinate. You can cover your seeds with plastic wrap, removing it after seedlings emerge. There are also capillary mats that supply water, via wicking, to the bottom of containers. This is a good choice if your containers are relatively shallow. If your sown seeds are allowed to dry out too much after germination, they may die.
Now that you know what a growing seed requires you can try starting some, or all, of your garden indoors. The best place to start is with your Botanical Interests seed packet. The back and inside of the packet contains all the information you need to you plan your garden and start your seeds. First, read the packet and determine if the seed you've chosen should be started indoors, and if so, when. Next you'll notice that the packet tells you how deep to sow the seed. Following the guidelines above, assemble your containers and soil, and then sow your seed. After watering your seed, vigilance and the right temperature will produce a seedling that immediately needs to be placed in a very well lit environment. Now it is time to carefully grow your seedling into a viable and healthy transplant.

For more information you can contact us or reach out to the folks at Botanical Interests...

Enjoy!

Mark Saidnawey
Pemberton Garden
2225 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, Ma 02140
Info@PembertonGardening.com